Essay
By Noam Backner
The Noodle Kingdom
Tracing the ancient origins and living traditions of the noodle at the Lajia site.

These 4,000-year-old noodles were unearthed at the Lajia archaeological site in Gansu province.
A bowl of Er si, the signature rice noodles of Yunnan.
A steaming serving of Thukpa in a remote Tibetan village, Qinghai, 2018.
A Hui Muslim artisan expertly pulling noodles by hand, Gansu, 2017.
Lagman: the distinct Uyghur take on the classic hand-pulled lamian.





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