Writing

An archive, not a blog

Essays, field notes, research pieces, conversations and reading lists. Long-form, sourced, and revised when the ground contradicts them.

  • A jailoo — summer pasture — beside Lake Song Kul in central Kyrgyzstan, with yurts on open grassland.

    Travel Journal · 27 July 2014 · 9 min · EN

    A Thousand Celestial Meadows: Kyrgyzstan

    A nation of Siberian nomads on a trans-civilisational frontier, and the summer pastures that still hold its identity.

    Eastern Pamir · Tian Shan · Song Kul · Osh · Fergana valley

  • Open grassland running up to bare mountains on the edge of the Central Asian steppe.

    Essay · 18 June 2014 · 6 min · EN

    In the Gates of Turan

    Why the Shahnameh's oldest quarrel is an ecological one: the sown land against the sea of grass.

    Iranian plateau · Transoxiana · The Eurasian steppe