
Essay · 16 August 2026 · 9 min · EN
Demons, Saints and Black Pens
Muhammad Siyah Qalam and the Eurasian world the Mongols left behind.
Khorasan · Transoxiana · Topkapi Palace, Istanbul
Writing
Essays, field notes, research pieces, conversations and reading lists. Long-form, sourced, and revised when the ground contradicts them.

Essay · 16 August 2026 · 9 min · EN
Muhammad Siyah Qalam and the Eurasian world the Mongols left behind.
Khorasan · Transoxiana · Topkapi Palace, Istanbul

Essay · 8 December 2014 · 15 min · EN
Chinese soil lacks selenium, and Tibet had horses. A conversation with a former caravan leader about what that trade actually was.
Yunnan · Sichuan · Lijiang · Litang · Lhasa

Essay · 4 September 2014 · 16 min · EN
Radanite merchants, a Jewish steppe empire, and a Mandarin in Kaifeng who mistook four apostles for four sons of Jacob.
Kaifeng · Khazaria · Samarkand · Ghur, Afghanistan · Merv

Essay · 19 July 2014 · 8 min · EN
From frontier ribat forts to Safavid road inns — the architecture that made long-distance trade possible, and the metaphor it became.
Anatolia · Transoxiana · Iran · Tash Rabat, Kyrgyzstan