Writing

An archive, not a blog

Essays, field notes, research pieces, conversations and reading lists. Long-form, sourced, and revised when the ground contradicts them.

  • Abbot Wang Yuanlu of Dunhuang, photographed in 1907, the self-appointed guardian of the Mogao grottoes.

    Research · 31 August 2014 · 15 min · EN

    The Lotus in the Sands

    How Buddhism travelled the trade routes into China — and how a Daoist caretaker at Dunhuang found the record of it behind a cracked mural.

    Tarim basin · Kucha · Khotan · Dunhuang · Gandhara

  • Tash Rabat, a stone caravanserai of the fifteenth century set in a high valley in Kyrgyzstan.

    Essay · 19 July 2014 · 8 min · EN

    Caravanserais: The Strongholds of the Soul

    From frontier ribat forts to Safavid road inns — the architecture that made long-distance trade possible, and the metaphor it became.

    Anatolia · Transoxiana · Iran · Tash Rabat, Kyrgyzstan

  • A high valley in the Pamirs, with green irrigated fields below bare mountain slopes.

    Travel Journal · 5 July 2014 · 17 min · EN

    The Jewels of Badakhshan

    Ismaili Islam, four-layered ceilings and dying luthiers in the river valleys of the Pamirs.

    Badakhshan · Khorog · Wakhan valley · Yamg · Andorov